Domaine Bachey-Legros, Sous La Roche, AOC/AOP Santenay, Cote de Beaune, Burgundy, 2012
This wine is in a series of 3 in descending quality:
- This wine
- Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon Macon Villages 2012
- Domaine Terres Gentilles Macon Lugny 2013
Santenay is the southernmost outpost of the Cote de Beaune, at the border with the Cote Challonaise. There are no grand crus in the Santenay appellation, but 12 premier crus and 34 lieu-dits to which Sous La Roche belongs. The majority of production is red, whites are more rare and related to neighbouring Chassagne-Montrachet, bordering to the north. The soils are limestone high up, and from mid-slope to lower down, limestone/marl. Exposure is east through south.
This wine: Varietal chardonnay, natural cork closure, 13.5% abv, Weavers, £24
WSET style tasting note
Appearance: clear and bright, of medium intensity lemon, showing tears.
Nose: clean on the nose, of pronounced intensity, developing, with aromas of orchard fruit – overripe apple and pear skin, sweet oak, with hints of spice, hazelnuts, butter and honey.
Palate: a dry wine, with high acidity, a light gummy grip, medium (+) alcohol and a medium (+) body, a smooth lightly oily texture, medium (+) intensity, with rich flavours of over-ripe green apple, warm grapefruit flesh, a hint of unripe stone fruit, and sweet oak. A long length with a clean apple-oak lightly gummy finish.
Quality: a very good quality wine, rich and ripe aromas, rich and full flavoured, with added weight and texture, complexity and a little grip, from fermentation and/or maturation, with lees contact, in new or second-use oak. The fresh acidity, perhaps slightly high, accentuates the flavour palette, but remains a little out of balance with the alcohol and overall intensity. There is an interesting range of tertiary notes emerging, with deft use of new oak supporting, rather than overwhelming the whole, giving rise to spicy and nutty nuances. There is a good concentration of flavour, consistent from nose to palate, which follows through on the long length.
Readiness for drinking/potential for ageing: ready to drink now, but there remains capacity for a little improvement. There are good levels of flavour intensity and concentration, which follow through on the long length, and will support cellaring. Tertiary development is showing through, which may deepen with a little time, but the balance is not quite there, leading to an estimate of continued improvement and development over the next 2-3 years.