Royal Tokaji, 5 Puttonyos Aszu, Tokaj, Hungary, 2009
In the news, reported in Decanter online 14/3/14 … Hungary abolishes 3 and 4 puttonyos Tokaji grades, the two lowest grades, as of this year.
A classic blend of furmint, harslevelu and muscat de lunel. Created from grapes affected by noble rot (botrytis cinerea), increasing wine viscosity and so body, sweetness and adding flavours and complexity; natural cork closure, 11% abv, 250ml, £9, Waitrose.
A comparison with Sauternes – it can be said that Tokaji shows, relative to Sauternes, lower alcohol and higher acidity.
WSET style tasting note
Appearance – clear and bright, deep intensity gold, showing tears
Nose – clean on the nose, pronounced intensity, fully developed, with botrytised aromas of stewed warm over-ripe yellow peach, dense rich orange marmalade, roasted pineapple, caramelised stone fruit, warm thick floral honey, over-ripe pineapple juice …
Palate – a sweet wine, medium (+) acidity, medium (-) alcohol, a full body (botrytis + RS), of medium (+) intensity, a smooth velvety texture, with flavours of over-ripe stewed yellow peach and apricot, rich orange marmalade, ripe mango, and warm floral honey. A long length and a clean over-ripe peach and over-ripe pineapple finish.
Quality – a very good quality wine, with well-balanced acidity with alcohol and the high level of residual sugar, leaving the palate with almost completely cleansed of the sense of sweet viscosity, but with rich intense concentrated botrytised flavours that persist on a very long length. A complex wine, evolving more on nose than palate.
Readiness for drinking/potential for ageing: ready to drink now, this fully developed wine will not improve/develop with further cellaring, but has the acid structure, concentration and complexity to hold for 10-15 years.