Rudi Pichler, Wosendorfer Kirchweg, Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria, 2002
Domaine Pichler is situated in Wosendorf, at the west end of the Wachau, at about 250m altitude, on rocky soils. The Wachau has its own controlling body, the Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus, with the wines classified into three categories:
- Steinfeder, meaning light and racy
- Federspiel, meaning elegant and medium bodied
- Smaragd, which are ripe and full-bodied, and may sometimes have an influence of botrytis (Gauntleys, 2015).
This wine: varietal riesling, natural cork closure, flat-bottom, labelled trocken, 13% abv, Gauntleys of Nottingham, about £27
WSET style tasting note
Appearance: clear and bright, medium intensity gold, showing tears.
Nose: clean on the nose, of pronounced intensity, developing, with dominant aromas of fresh lime and rich lime cordial, lightly kerosene, pine needles, and underlying lemon and grapefruit, with time developing a warmer honeyed almost tropical nuance, pineapple skin, and a whiff of stewed apple.
Palate: a dry wine, with medium (+) acidity, medium (+) alcohol and a medium body, medium (+) intensity, a smooth lightly oily texture and a low-key grip, with flavours of rich lime cordial, with underlying lemon and lime juice and grapefruit, and a hint of bruised apple. A medium (+) length with a clean lightly grippy lime infused finish.
Quality: a wine of very good quality, with marked intensity and concentration of flavour, dominated by limy citrus, and showing the petrolly signature of an aged riesling. The wine has either spent some time in old oak or had cold maceration on the skins. Of modest complexity, with yellow citrus and a riper notes slowly emerging from beneath the initially strong limey threshold, this wine has perfectly balanced acidity with alcohol, which suit the flavour intensity, which follows into the decent length.
Readiness for drinking/potential for ageing: ready to drink now, this wine has perfect balance, loads of concentration of flavour and shows early signs of tertiary development, it should develop and improve over a further 5-10 years in cellar.