Fam. Campedelli, Marion, DOC Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, 2009
This wine: Lot No. L.54.13.A., indeterminate amarone blend, which nominally includes corvina and/or corvinone (45-95%) but the proportion of corvina >= that of corvinone, rondinella (5-30%), and <25% other approved red varieties such as, forsellina, molinara, croatina, negrara, oseletta, pelara; coated natural cork closure, 16% abv, BBR, ~£65 (01/17), probably undervalued, as ~£120 at Christopher Keiller (09/17).
Consumer tasting note: a red fruit nose, with kirsch, strawberry, dried berries, cedar and red and black liquorice; full-bodied with warming though not overwhelming alcohol, low-key tannins, with ripe red fruits on the palate – strawberry, cherry and plum, all edged with *cedar and *sweet oak, dried rose buds and liquorice. Finishes smooth, medium-long. Decant for 30 minutes, and sip with richly flavoured red meat or game based dishes – an overnight beef casserole comes to mind.
* it is commonly accepted that a note of cedar is related to exposure to oak, and that amarone is only exposed to organoleptically neutral large format botte, which allow slow oxidation. Others write however, for example Belfrage , that amarone can be, and is, exposed to a variety of formats and woods, implying that wood-related aromas and flavours may be present. This is witnessed by the cedar and sweet oak detected on this wine, and on other amarone, and again on a Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2010.
WSET style tasting note
Appearance: clear and bright, medium intensity garnet, showing tears.
Nose: clean, medium (+) intensity, developing, with aromas as they come, of slightly high-toned kirsch, sweet oak, cedar, spicy red currant jelly, waxy dried red berries, a floral whiff of peony, dried rose bud, stewed strawberry, red liquorice, and after ten minutes, warm black liquorice.
Palate: dry, medium (+) acidity, ripe medium (-) tannins, high alcohol, full body, medium (+) intensity, a sense of sweetness in mid-palate, a smooth texture, flavours of ripe stewed red fruits – cherry, strawberry and plum, touches of cedar and sweet oak, dried rose bud, hints of red liquorice, bees-wax. A medium (+) length with a clean warming finish of dried and waxy red berries, and a slight bitterness on the end, which is infused with hints of blackberry.
Quality: very good, well-balanced fresh acidity and modest ripe tannins with the warming, yet well-integrated alcohol, suiting the rich well-developed flavour profile, intensity and concentration; there is evidence of time in perfectly integrated wood of which subtle edges show, and bottle, with stewed and dried fruit notes. Sound intensity throughout, similar concentration, showing good but not outstanding complexity, following into a slightly disappointing medium-long length.
Drinking readiness/ageing potential: can drink now, but has potential for further ageing, over say 2-3 years – the structure is sound, with an interesting complexity and good concentration of flavour, and despite the less than optimum length, I feel that richness will increase with a little more time.
- Belfrage, N. Barolo to Valpolicella, The Wines of Northern Italy. Published by Mitchell Beazley, 2004.