Fruitiere Vinicole Arbois (a co-op), Chateau Bethanie, Brut, AOC Cremant de Jura, Arbois, Jura, Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, France, NV
On Cremant de Jura [1,2]
Made an AOC in 1995, both white, ~90% of production (oft varietal chardonnay), and pink (oft varietal pinot noir) sparkling wines are produced. Cremant represents about 15% of total wine production of the coincident appellations of AOC Côtes du Jura, d’Arbois, Château-Chalon and l’Etoile. Permitted varieties are chardonnay, pinot gris, pinot noir, poulsard (red), savagnin (white) and trousseau (red). Manual harvesting is mandatory. The minimum time on the lees is 9 months.
This wine: lot No. 2609 2017 (no L prefix, if this is indeed the lot number); a base wine of varietal chardonnay is made, to which 2 cl of Vin Jaune* is added, as dosage, ie at bottling for the second fermentation; agglomerate cork closure, 12% abv, Delilah Fine Foods, £20 (06/18)
*Vin Jaune is made from varietal savagnin. A base wine is aged in barrel, for a minimum of 6 years, under ullage and flor, where it develops some of the yeasty, nutty character of Sherry, but unlike Sherry, Vin Jaune is not fortified .
Consumer tasting note: an interesting combination of a traditionally bottle fermented chardonnay, with lots of notes from the bakery, plus powdered ginger and coffee, with added complexity of almond and bruised apple from a small dosage of Vin Jaune – not dissimilar to a Champagne with age, but without the golden hue. Just off-dry, with a medium-full body and a medium-long length.
Drink now – RTD, but will keep – Wait. No need to decant.
WSET style tasting note
Appearance: clear and bright, pale intensity lemon, showing tears and small bubbles.
Nose: clean, pronounced, fully developed, with aromas as they come, of brioche, a touch yeasty, powdered ginger, malty, burnt caramel, warm hay, bruised apple, a hint of citrus, a hint of flaked almond nuttiness, hint of milky coffee, beeswax.
Palate: off dry, medium acidity, medium alcohol, medium (+) body, pronounced intensity, a low-key grip, with flavours of powdered ginger, lightly malty, bruised apple, Danish pastry, flaked almond. A medium (+) length with a clean finish of caramelised pastry and bruised apple, with almond on the end. A creamy mousse, with a medium persistence.
Quality: very good, well balanced acidity with residual sugar and alcohol; a strong intensity throughout, with lesser concentration; showing moderate-high complexity, with oxidative notes of bruised apple and almond, suggesting advanced age, following into a slightly disappointing medium-long length.
Drinking readiness/ageing potential: drink now, unsuited to further ageing, but will keep for 1-2 years – a sound structure, fully developed, starting to show oxidative notes of advanced age.