Tenuta Giol, Dossagio Zero, Spumante Metodo Classico di Raboso, Veneto, Italy, 2009
This wine: lot No. L.001, made within DOC Vicenza, where this sparkling wine may be simply labelled as Raboso; organic, varietal raboso veronese (an ancient acid and tannic red variety), second fermentation in bottle, with 40 months on the lees, then disgorged with zero dosage applied, mushroom natural cork closure, 12% abv, M5 Services Farm Shop, £28 (09/17)
Consumer tasting note: an unusual variety from the Veneto, showing its age, with low gas pressure, short persistence and a significant grip. Nevertheless, an interesting wine for a blind wine circle, given the aromatic profile of bruised and caramelised stewed apple, powdered ginger, dried flowers, black boiled sweets, floor polish and pine; medium bodied with a similar taste profile, but adding a nutty note and more of the bakery. Finishes medium-long. Drink now –
RTD – Wait. No need to decant.
WSET style tasting note
Appearance: clear and bright, pale intensity gold, showing tears and small bubbles [no deposit].
Nose: clean, medium (+) intensity, fully developed, with aromas as they come, of lightly bruised apple, caramelised stewed apple, powdered ginger, an edge of steak fat, hints of honey and quince, dried flowers, a whiff of black boiled sweets, a suggestion of floor polish, and after some time pine.
Palate: dry, medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol, medium body, medium (+) intensity, a moderate grip, with flavours of warm bruised apple, hint of Danish pastry, hazelnut, a hint of floor polish, a hint of black boiled sweets. A medium (+) length with a clean finish of baked and bruised apple, with a significant grip. A creamy mousse with a short persistence.
Quality: very good, perfectly balanced acidity with alcohol; a better than average intensity with similar concentration; showing a significant grip (so a food wine rather than aperitif), which must be varietal, given no suggestion of oak or unripeness, ie small and/or thick skinned berries, and that ageing on fine lees removes tannins; a fully developed moderate complexity with indications of extensive time in bottle, witnessed by the note of floor polish. Finishes medium-long.
Drinking readiness/ageing potential: drink now, unsuited to further ageing, but will keep for a year – fully developed, no exceptional substance, with a diminished gas pressure*, and showing an advanced tertiary dimension of floor polish, which may not be commonly appreciated.
* Liger Belair suggests that under cork, there can be a drop of ~30% gas pressure over 6.25 years, so instead of typically 6 atm at the outset, pressure can drop significantly to ~4.2 atm, which will be reflected, one assumes, in the persistence.