Domaine A et P de Villaine, AOC Bouzeron, Cote Challonaise, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Franche-Comte, France, 2014
On AOC Bouzeron
An appellation for aligoté only, using traditional vinification, and sometimes oak ageing. There is also the regional entry level AOC Bourgogne Aligoté (one of burgundy’s 7 regionals), with less stringent regulation.
There are two aligoté clones, aligoté vert and aligote doré. Vert is high yielding and regarded as inferior in Burgundy, to both doré and chardonnay. Its prolific yield and so relatively low cost, high acid character and dilute aromatics (various sources) of apple, lemon and fresh herbs, destine it to lower priced cuvées and the production of crémant de Bourgogne.
Doré, on the other hand, is relatively low yielding, still with brisk acidity, but with more character, taking well to oak, in both vinification and lees ageing, and will age for 5, and exceptionally to 10 years, developing notes of eg brioche and hazelnut, see.
This wine: lot No. LBA (on front label), organic, varietal aligoté doré; the vinification regime is hydraulic pressing, then cold soaking for 24-36 hours in stainless steel, then fermented and lees aged in in 30-40hl oak foudre for 10-12 months; coated natural cork closure, 12.5% abv, Caves Notre Dame, €26.10 (09/19)
Consumer tasting note: a standout aligote, normally consigned to cremant de Bougogne, this example has loads of intensity, concentration and development; fresh acidity with strong aromas and flavours of baked apple, with citrussy and limy hints, honey and roasted nuts. A long finish.
Drink now – RTD, but will keep for 2-4 years – Wait. No need to decant, just give a brief airing in the glass.
WSET style tasting note
Appearance: clear and bright, pale intensity gold, showing tears [no deposit].
Nose: clean, medium (+) intensity, fully developed, with aromas as they come, of cold stewed apple edged with creamy rice pudding, peach jam, thin honey, cracked and roasted hazelnut, lightly caramelised baked apple, a hint of limy-citrus, the merest suggestion of oil paint.
Palate: dry, high acidity, medium alcohol, medium (+) body, medium (+) intensity, a low-key grip with a smooth velvety texture, with flavours of baked apple, citrussy, roasted hazelnut hints, low key hint of lime, touch of bruised apple. A long length with a clean finish of baked apple and nuts.
Quality: very good, perfectly balanced fresh acidity with alcohol, altogether suiting the quite strong flavour intensity, similar concentration and medium-full bodied character; showing a well developed moderate complexity, with evidence of time on the lees (mouthfeel, body), gentle oxidation via neutral oak (hazelnut), and in bottle (baked fruit, nuts, oil paint), finishes long.
Drinking readiness / ageing potential: drink now, unsuited to further ageing, but will keep for 2-4 years – a sound acid structure and balance, pretty much fully developed, with plenty of intensity and concentration to hold for a few years.