Dobogo, Furmint, OEM (PDO) Tokaji, Hungary, 2016
On dry Hungarian furmint.
The main points are that it is produced in oaked and unoaked styles, shows high acidity, and a sensory profile of green, stone, and citrus fruit, frequently with a floral dimension. In one example blind tasted, I found green apple dominant, which is why I thought it worth evaluating more examples for typicity. In some cases furmint could be mistaken for dry riesling (grip and profile) or Hunter Valley semillon (in the cases of lower alcohol).
The sensory profile in more detail, includes in decreasing frequency of occurrence, in 15 or so public domain tasting notes – citrus blossom/jasmine , honeysuckle, green apple , pear , apricot , peach yellow , peach white , lemon juice/zest , lime juice/zest , grapefruit, pineapple , mango, passion fruit, spice , honey , nuts , wax.
This wine: lot No. none, bottle No. 4254/11490, varietal furmint; hand harvested, both fermented, and then aged for 10 months in oak – new Hungarian and mostly neutral older French and Italian (info from the producer); screw cap closure, 13% abv, Hay Wines, £22 (02/20)
Consumer tasting note: pure furmint with standard high acidity, and aromas of yellow citrus, touches of stone and orchard fruit, and hints of a honeyed-nuttiness; medium-full bodied, with a noticeable grip from neutral oak, and a medium length.
Drink now – RTD, and will keep for 1-2 years – Wait. No need to decant, but sip from a glass over 20 minutes or so, for the honeyed-nuttiness to emerge.
WSET style tasting note
Appearance: clear and bright, pale intensity lemon, showing tears [no sediment].
Nose: clean, medium (+) intensity, developing, with aromas as they come, of lemon pith edged with a touch of zest, grapefruit flesh, a hint of softer richer apricot, green apple, a hint of spiciness, hint of white peach, a developing hint of honey.
Palate: dry, high acidity, medium (+) alcohol, medium (+) body, medium (+) intensity, a smooth heading towards lightly oily texture, and a low-key grip, with flavours of tropical nuances – mango, a hint of gorse flower (delicate coconut), hint of white peach, a hint of honeyed-nuttiness. A medium length with a clean fresh finish of honeyed nuttiness with delicate gorse flower right on the end, and a building grip.
Quality: good, well balanced fresh acidity with alcohol, suiting the texture and body; this has seen old oak and possibly some % of new oak, witness the building grip (which could also come from skin contact) and the coconut note; shows a moderate complexity, with just a hint of tertiary development (honey, nuts), and better than moderate intensity, with similar concentration; finishes medium as expected.
Drinking readiness/ageing potential: drink now, unsuited to further ageing, but will keep for a year or two – a sound acid structure and balance, and whilst there is the suggestion of embryonic tertiary development, it is without intensity, concentration and indicative length, to suggest improvement with further cellaring.