Domaine Pietri Geraud, Blanc l’Ecume, AOP Collioure, Pyrénées-Orientale, Occitanie, France, 2018
On AOP Collioure
The appellation is coterminous with that of Banyuls. This is the Côte Vermeille, between the Mediterranean and the Pyrénées. The vineyard extends to just under 600ha, on hilly narrow terraces exposed to the sun, on schist soils. Hot in summer, with daytime temperatures moderated by humid onshore sea breezes, there is a diurnal range of ~10°C, as night-time air flows descend from the mountains.
Reds were elevated to AOC in 1971, pink wine in 1991, and whites from 2002. Production, in 2016 (1), is mostly red (59%), then pink (23%), with white a minority (18%).
Regarding whites, these are grenache heavy, of grenache blanc and gris, which must be >=70% of the bottled blend, along with accessories macabeu, malvoisie, marsanne, roussanne and vermentino.
Red varieties are principally grenache noir, syrah and mourvèdre, with accessories carignan, cinsault and grenache gris.
- Conseil Interprofessioenll des Vins du Roussillon [online] accessed 02/05/20.
- Fiche appellation: AOC Collioure [online] accessed 01/05/20.
This wine: lot No. L191542 (below back label), a blend of 85% grenache gris and blanc, with vermentino (aka rolle) and marsanne, Diam 5 agglomerate cork closure, 13% abv, à Collioure, €16 (02/20)
Consumer tasting note: quite rare to find a white Collioure, and this example has a lot going on complexity-wise, with a profile of dessert apple, stone fruit, orange, ginger, roast hazelnut and anise; full bodied with a velvety mouth-feel, with more stone fruit, grapefruit and nuts. Finishes medium.
Drink now – RTD and will keep for up to 2 years – Wait. Refrigerate until chilled, remove, double decant, and wait 30 minutes.
WSET style tasting note
Appearance: clear and bright, pale intensity lemon, showing tears [no sediment].
Nose: clean, medium (+) intensity, fully developed, with aromas as they come, of stewed dessert apple, nectarine, sugary confectionery, a hint of honey, orange flesh, touches of ginger and roast hazelnut, a rich floral note reminiscent of wallflowers, whiff of ripe yellow peach, a hint of oak, leaf tea, hint of eucalyptus, hint of candle wax, hint of anise.
Palate: dry, high acidity, medium (+) alcohol, full body, medium (+) intensity, a moderate grip with a velvety, leaning towards an oily texture, with flavours of white peach, grapefruit, cracked hazelnut, almond oil. A medium length, with a clean finish of white peach edged with nutty nuances.
Quality: good, well balanced fresh acidity with alcohol, suiting the full bodied character well; of moderate complexity with slightly better concentration, with an interesting moderate edging towards high complexity, with notes of primary fruit, fruit development (stewed fruit), exposure to oak (oak), and bottle age (ginger, honey, leaf tea, nuts, wax). Finishes medium.
Drinking readiness/ageing potential: drink now, unsuited to further ageing, but will keep for up to 2 years – a sound acid backbone and balance, but with a middling concentration, intensity and length. However, complexity-wise, it has a lot to say, with an interesting balance of primary fruit and bottle age, tending towards fully developed. Nevertheless, the former structural characteristics outweigh the latter sensory profile, and it would not be worth cellar space in the expectation of improvement.